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How to go about it.
First off, NEVER send the complete frame to me. I am not a licensed dealer! It is against the law to ship a frame to me, and I do not need the frame for this work. |
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How to remove the trigger group:
Remove the grip or buttstock as the case may be.
Remove the forend and barrel from the frame.
Remove the screw behind the trigger guard with the big spring around it that is normally concealed by the grip or buttstock.
If it is an "easy open" frame with the pivot point ABOVE THE TRIGGER:
Use a 3/32 pin punch (or an appropriately sized nail in a pinch) to tap out the pivot pin whose ends you see in the sides of the frame directly above the trigger. With this pin removed everything needed for doing the trigger job is in the trigger housing which all comes out as one unit. Do not remove anything else.... stop right there with disassembly.
If it is an old style frame:
The pivot pin is located forward, directly below the hinge pin. In disassembly, this is the only difference between the two vintages of frames.
Just reverse the process to reassemble, but cock the striker first. This is the long flat piece whose wedge shaped end engages the upper end of the trigger.
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| What You Get:
Normal in-shop time is 2-3 weeks max. This is what I shoot for and seldom go over that.
Striker and trigger honed
Trigger pull lightened
Engagement set minimum
Over-travel set minimum
Pull weight, your choice, + or - 1/4 #. Pull weight as light as 12 ounces.
All trigger jobs are done "dry" for a true pull weight that lasts. Smoothness is from honest honing with special stones.
Pull weights under about 1 1/2 pound require slightly greater engagement to prevent trigger from "bumping off" when the barrel is snapped closed in the frame. (Note: When bump off occurs closing the barrel, to stop this from happening simply place your trigger finger on the side of the trigger and press it forward while snapping the barrel shut. Since the hammer is not cocked at this point of the cycle, there is absolutely no danger involved. And again, since the hammer is not cocked, there is no problem whatever if the striker does bump off. You just need to open and close the barrel again, which resets the striker.)
Pull weight will vary according to where the finger is placed on trigger. Pull weight is weighed at approximate middle of trigger.
Over-travel is set at minimum to reduce movement of the gun after the striker is released. A longer over-travel screw is installed. Please note that on some frames the sear (inside the frame) has to be shortened when the overtravel is set minimum. This is due to the overtravel screw not letting the trigger move back far enough while the trigger guard is being squeezed to unlock the barrel. Call me IF this occurs. I have only seen just a few like this out of over 1,000 Contender trigger jobs I have done, but it can happen.
1 1/4 to 1 1/2 # is a good weight for target, varmint, and general use, but to some shooters it may be too light for hunting use. For hunting, I suggest 2-3 # pull.
The Contender readily and safely lets you go to a much lighter pull weight than you can with either the Encore or the G2, clear down to just a few ounces if you want.
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| How to send your trigger group:
SEND THE CONTENDER TRIGGER GROUP ONLY along with a check or money order for $55.00, which includes return shipping, and indicate the pull weight you want. Simplest and easiest is to end it via US Mail in a padded bag, insured for $50.
Mail to and make payment to:
Mike Bellm
3388-B Merlin Rd. PMB 402
Grants Pass, OR 97526
My phone, if you need help with disassembly or reassembly: (541) 956-6938
Please do not call asking me to repeat all the above details. Everything is accurate as of 3-20-09.
You may not add accessories to this job. They must be ordered separately and shipped separately from Bellm TCs, Inc. It's not that I am just an old curmudgeon, I simply want to sit down at the bench, focus on doing your job, mail it back, and move to the next task without having to chase down other items. I personally do not sell the accessories listed on the website. That is Kim's department. We have elected to each do what we do best and not mix the two.
AGAIN, DO NOT MAIL FRAMES TO THIS ADDRESS FOR ANY REASON. I AM NOT AN FFL HOLDER!
Thanks! Glad to help!
Mike Bellm
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