80 degree diamond eze lap for recutting encore pro hunter G2 sears
For altering the sear notch so hammer remains securely cocked. Stops hammer "push off," which often happens when either the sear notch is stoned/polished or a much lighter trigger/sear spring is installed.
USE THE 80 DEGREE DIAMOND LAP TO ALTER ENCORE AND G2 SEAR NOTCHES TO A MORE HORIZONTAL PLANE TO STOP HAMMER PUSH OFF.
The sear notch in Encore and G2 trigger sears is a 90 degree cut. It is tilted so that the lower surface of the cut is slanted downward. When you polish this surface for a smooth trigger pull, the slick finish often will not securely hold the hammer in the cocked position. Moderate thumb pressure forward on the hammer should not push it off its cocked position. If it does, then one or both of the following must be done. First, increase the engagement between the hammer nose and sear surface by stoning the bottom of the hammer nose flat. This moves its point of contact in the sear notch forward, thus increasing the engagement. For a smoother trigger pull, very slightly radius the forward end of the nose where you stoned and polished it flat so there is not a sharp corner "reading" every little irregularity in the sear surface and creating "creep." If the hammer still will readily push off, you must make the lower surface of the sear notch more horizontal by roughly 10 degrees. Experience has shown us that less than a 10 degree change sometimes is not enough, but on occasion more than 10 degrees is required. However, the vast majority of sears hold the hammer securely cocked by altering the factory sear cut by 10 degrees. We have used various methods of altering the sear notch, but find the best results are obtained when we can control the degree to which the sear notch is altered by machining one side of a Diamond EZE Lap to a precise angle and using this machined surface as a guide while the grit side of the lap cuts the inside, lower corner of the sear notch. The machined side of the EZE Lap is held against the TOP side of the sear notch. Holding the ground side against the top side of the sear notch puts the cutting surface of the lap at 80 degrees from the top side instead of the usual 90 degrees. So when you stroke the sear over the lap, the lower surface is recut making an 80 degree included angle instead of 90 degree, thus making it on a more horizontal plane by 10 degrees. Note that I said we stroke the sear over the lap. This is how we do it. The reason is that we can hold the lap in one hand looking at the end of the lap and sighting down the lap to see that the top surface of the sear notch is indeed flat on the ground side of the lap and that the grit side of the lap is cutting first near the inside corner of the notch. Take a few strokes like this, then look to see where the grit has cut the bluing off. It should be cutting near the inside corner of the notch and be leaving bluing intact toward the bottom of the notch. Continue cutting the inside corner down, keeping the top side of the notch parallel to the ground side of the lap, until all of the bluing on the notch has been removed. You will now have an 80 degree sear notch with the lower surface more horizontal and having less tendency for the hammer nose to slip off of it. The top side of the sear notch stays where it is and the inside corner is lowered until the sear's included angle is 80 degrees. Once the sear notch is recut to 80 degrees with the Diamond EZE Lap, you will need to polish this surface with either a Hard Arkansas polishing stone or preferrably our 80 degree Wyoming Stone (discontinued). You cannot get into the 80 degree cut with a rectangular or square stone with 90 degree corners. The polishing stone MUST be 80 degree or less on one edge.Hold the stone so that it is flat on the lower side of the sear notch and maintain the angle you just cut with the EZE Lap. Ie, don't get reckless with polishing and undo what you did with the EZE Lap. See the next page for our NEW 80 degree Hard Arkansas Stone. You can also use other types of more coarse triangular stones IN GOOD CONDITION to start the polishing process, then finish with the Hard Arkansas stone. We have chosen the No. 26F Diamond EZE Lap to modify to an 80 degree side for several reasons. It is an inch wide and easy to hold onto working at the bench on trigger parts while fitting well in a pocket for other uses while hunting, fishing, etc. It comes in a flat leather pouch that rides well in a pocket. Its 3" length is excellent for general knife sharpening, so if you only use it for a trigger job or two, it won't just sit in the drawer thereafter. Knives, scissors, drill bits, screwdriver bits, case trimmer cutting edges, de burring tools, reamers, TC barrel locking bolts..... these are just some of the things I routinely use EZE Laps on. We picked the No. 26F EZE Lap also for its handy size and groove down the middle for sharpening fish hooks. Because it is diamond, the EZE Lap readily cuts polishing stones. So when your Wyoming Stone or Hard Arkansas stone becomes glazed over or worn, stroking the stone over the flat diamond lap will clean and true up the surface. When doing trigger jobs, many of my "trips to the bathroom" are not to answer nature's call, but to clean and true up the stones I am using. A drop of detergent and a little water cut the oil and grease embedded into the stone and washes away the grit removed by the lap. Do use caution handling the 80 degree Diamond EZE Lap. The 80 degree machined side is sharp and WILL cut your fingers if not handled carefully.As always, we are available for technical assistance if you need it. Our newly redesigned EZELap is multi purpose for the Contender applications, one end is cut at 80 degrees for the G2, Encore/Prohunters, other end is milled for the Contender application, one tool does both.