HD SPeedlock Hammer Spring tc encore prohunter g2 heavy duty hammer spring hdhs-1
NO GUNSMITH INSTALLATION. ANYONE can do it...... just unscrew the hex nut the grip or buttstock attaches to and the old spring and strut drop out or take the frame apart per our instructions. Highly recommended if a hammer extension is installed.TC Encore and G2 use the same hammer spring.The factory hammer spring is simply marginal at best.
Avoid misfires and get better accuracy with a stronger hammer spring, especially if you use a hammer extension.NOTE: Thompson Center states clearly that you will likely get misfires with a hammer extension with their standard hammer spring, admitting in effect their hammer spring is marginalIf you use a hammer extension, in most instances you MUST use a stronger hammer spring also.
In an Encore or G2 frame, the trigger/sear spring has to overcome tension from the hammer spring in order to rebound the hammer to half cock when you take your finger off the trigger. This is a CRITICAL built in safety feature in these mechanisms that prevents the hammer from resting on the firing pin with a live round in the chamber and the possibility of the hammer being struck and firing the round, such as might happen when the gun is dropped for example.When a lighter trigger/sear spring is installed, it often times can not rebound the hammer to half cock, and the hammer spring must be shortened to allow the trigger/sear spring to do so.Shortening the hammer spring reduces its available energy to drive the hammer forward.In most situations, a lighter hammer spring still fires primers reliably, BUT over the course of doing hundreds of Encore and G2 trigger jobs, we have run into a fair number of situations where folks get misfires after we have done a trigger job that also entailed shortening the hammer spring, ESPECIALLY WHEN THE COMBINATION OF FACTORY AMMO AND A SOMEWHAT DEEP CHAMBER RESULT IN EXCESS HEADSPACE OR WHEN SHOOTING MILITARY TYPE AMMO WITH HARDER TO IGNITE PRIMERS.In the case of excess headspace, what happens is this. Especially with rimless or belted magnum ammo and the barrel's spring loaded extractor, as the barrel is closed the case is pushed into the chamber by the breech face and the case head remains close to the breech face when the barrel is closed.Before the firing pin can indent the primer, there has to be a stopping point in the chamber to support the case against the blow of the primer. This is often referred to as a "headspace point," ie, that point that stops the cartridge from moving forward.It takes energy to move not only the mass of the cartridge forward, but also the mass of the extractor along with friction from the extractor spring.The energy lost to moving the case forward is not available to dent the primer and may result in an insufficient amount of energy remaining to reliably fire the primer. Thus the shooter gets a misfire.(You can experiment with this yourself. The first time I heard this myself, I thought it was silly, but it can be demonstrated in frames that misfire by first tipping the barrel up, bumping the gun to be sure the case back to the breechface, then slowly lowering it to fire on the horizontal and getting misfires. Then if you first tip the barrel down and bump the gun to move the case forward in the chamber, raise it to horizontal and fire it, misfires will often go away.... applies to both rimmed and rimless ammo, btw. If you are getting misfires in Encores or G2s or in Contenders where the misfires are NOT related to the hammer block safety try this experiment for yourself.)Misfires are not only annoying but can mean ruining an otherwise terrific hunt or losing points in a match. They can also result in disparaging remarks about the gun itself and the guy that did the trigger job on it! Not good!And of course, if you factor in harder to ignite military type primers, this can compound the problem of misfires.As the weaker hammer spring and misfires phenomenon became more apparent, we began installing slightly stronger hammer springs cut from blank spring stock as an experiment, and this stopped misfires.We are still experimenting with various spring tensions to see if there is an optimum tension, but in the meantime, we are now supplying three different tensions of springs.ALL SPRING TENSION VALUES LISTED BELOW ARE FOR SPRINGS THE SAME LENGTH AS WHAT WE USUALLY SHORTEN THE FACTORY SPRINGS TO FOR THE HAMMER TO ALWAYS REBOUND. OUR CUSTOM SPRINGS ARE GROUND TO THIS SHORTER LENGTH. ACTUAL POUNDAGE VALUES WILL VARY, ESPECIALLY IF THE SPRINGS ARE SHORTENED FURTHER.A STOCK factory spring shortened to assure the hammer rebounds is approximately a 30 pound spring.OUR CUSTOM "SPEEDLOCK" HAMMER SPRINGS:1) 44 POUND is 46% stronger than factory and may prove over time to be the best for general use.2) 51 POUND is 70% stronger than factory. This spring is the one to choose for worst case scenario conditions that might include one or more of the following factors a) using factory and/or military ammo in b) somewhat deep factory chambers (ie, maximum or excess headspace conditions, especially with the belted mag chambers), c) using a hammer extension, d) using harder-to-ignite military type or magnum primers, e)reducing the trigger pull to the lightest weights and thus having to shorten the hammer spring the most, or f) for absolute fastest lock time, most consistent ignition, and best accuracy potential.
Our HD SPRING FIXES A LOT OF POTENTIAL PROBLEMS!
The heavier hammer spring tends to produce a lighter pull weight inspite of the increased force against the sear. Just the opposite occurs. With more force on the angled sear surface, the heavier hammer spring tension tends to reduce the pull weight.IMPERATIVE NOTE:
THE HAMMER MUST REBOUND TO HALF COCK AFTER YOU REMOVE YOUR FINGER FROM THE TRIGGER!IF IT DOES NOT REBOUND RELIABLY, EVERY TIME, TO HALF COCK, YOU MUST GRIND OR CUT SOME LENGTH FROM THE HAMMER SPRING TO SHORTEN IT AND GIVE SOME FREE TRAVEL OF THE HAMMER AT THE FORWARD END OF THE STROKE! (About .2" to 1/4")You do not have to disassemble the frame to install the hammer spring. Just remove the hex nut grip/buttstock adaptor, and the hammer spring and its strut come right out. While you have the hex nut out, check the inside opening on the male threaded end for sharp edges. Better yet is to chamfer this hole, even with a larger size drill bit. We have run into a number of frames that would not cock due to the lower tip of the hammer strut hitting on the top end of this nut's inside opening. Either chamfer this opening to let the strut start into it without catching on the edge of the hole or grind the end of the hammer strut to a point so it is less likely to catch on the edge of the hole and prevent the hammer from cocking.NOTE ALSO: The undersides of the Encore and G2 hammers are skeletonized in the narrow area ahead of the spur. The extra strain on the hammer from the combination of dry firing and/or steel hammer extensions has proven to readily break the spur off the hammer at the forward end of the narrow section. Increasing the hammer spring tension may aggravate this tendency, but to date we have seen no indication of a problem as a result of using stronger "Speedlock" hammer springs. In the event a hammer spur breaks off, we have an excellent source for repair. The spur on my frame broke off in the early stages of development of our hammer extensions. I had it welded back on by an associate and unless you look to see the skeletonized bottom side of hammer has been filled and strengthened, you would never know it had been welded on! Immaculate work and a much stronger end product, like it should have been in the first place. Contact us if you need this service.In any event, DO NOT DRY FIRE THE ENCORE OR G2 without providing some kind of cushion to prevent the hammer from slamming against the back of the breech. A wad of rag works well.In the drop down menu below, choose:44 pound for a 46% increase in strength, or 51 pound for a 70% increase in strength.
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